Behind the Design: Air Jordan 5 'Grape' (2025)

First debuting in 1990, the Air Jordan 5 was a daring evolution in the Air Jordan series—one that introduced reflective detailing, clear soles, and the now-iconic lace toggle. Designed by Tinker Hatfield, the Jordan 5 was inspired by WWII fighter planes, and that aggressive spirit was captured in its signature shark tooth midsole design. Among its original colorways, the Air Jordan 5 'Grape' stood out as a non-Chicago Bulls look that would go on to become one of the most beloved lifestyle Jordans of all time.

History of the Air Jordan 5

The Air Jordan 5 was designed by Tinker Hatfield, who took inspiration from the P-51 Mustang fighter jet, a plane used by Allied forces during World War II. The aggressive silhouette of the Air Jordan 5 takes cues from the Mustang, embodying Jordan’s dominant on-court style and movements that mimicked the plane. The midsole of the Air Jordan 5 features signature shark-tooth detailing, paying homage to “The Shark,” a version of the P-51 decorated with cartoonish shark teeth. The shoe was the first basketball silhouette to feature a 3M tongue, a clear outsole, and a molded ankle collar, making it a revolutionary shoe for its time and leading a new shift in 90s footwear that is still relevant today. 

Worn by Michael Jordan throughout the 1990 season and on center stage at the All-Star game, the Air Jordan 5 was released to the public in February 1990. Retailing for $125 USD, the Air Jordan 5 debuted in four colorways. Spike Lee's Mars Blackmon character teamed up with Jordan again to deliver more advertisements for the release, with the "It's Gotta Be The Shoes" TV spot becoming one of the most iconic footwear advertisements in history. However, the Air Jordan 5 would surprisingly see much of its popularity from a new show titled The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air. 

Behind the Design: Air Jordan 5 'Grape'

This 2025 release of the Air Jordan 5 'Grape' stays true to the original design blueprint. It features a premium white leather upper with breathable mesh netting along the quarter panel. The standout details are, of course, the Grape Ice tongue and New Emerald accents—bold pops that define the colorway’s unique identity. The Nike Air branding on the heel returns for the first time since 1990, while the translucent rubber outsole nods to the original’s futuristic edge. An icy finish beneath the sole keeps the look fresh while grounding it in retro roots.

The Air Jordan 5 'Grape' is more than a sneaker—it’s a shoe that transcended basketball. Its return on June 21 marks yet another opportunity for longtime fans and new collectors to own a piece of Jordan Brand history. Whether you remember it from the hardwood, the screen, or the streets, one thing is certain: this shoe will never go out of style.