Brand Spotlight: The Story Behind New Balance

New Balance didn't start as a sneaker brand. It started as an arch support company in Boston, and that origin still shapes everything it makes more than a century later.

Why New Balance Matters

Founded in 1906 by William J. Riley, the New Balance Arch Support Company built devices to correct foot problems — not sneakers. Riley studied the way chickens balanced their weight across three points on a foot and used that principle to design more stable arch supports for people. That's where the name comes from: New Balance, literally.

The shift to footwear came decades later. In 1938, the company produced one of its first running shoes for members of the Boston Brown Bag Harriers running club, and over the following decades became known for fitting runners individually, offering multiple width options at a time when most brands sold shoes in a single standard width. That level of customization was almost unheard of in mainstream footwear, and it set a precedent the brand still leans on today — New Balance remains one of the only major sneaker companies to routinely offer widths beyond standard D and B.

In 1972, Jim Davis bought the company for approximately $100,000. At the time, New Balance was a small regional operation known mostly within the running community. Under Davis's ownership, the brand leaned harder into performance running, investing in biomechanics research and, unlike nearly every competitor rushing to move production overseas, maintained domestic manufacturing in New England and later expanded its Made in UK production. That decision would later become one of its biggest cultural assets — but at the time, it was a bet that quality and craftsmanship could still compete against cheaper offshore production. It took decades for the wider market to fully appreciate that bet.

Iconic Moments, Collabs & Partnerships

New Balance built its reputation on performance long before it became a streetwear staple. The 990, released in 1982, was the first running shoe to retail for $100 — a price that raised eyebrows at the time and quickly became a symbol of premium quality rather than a deterrent. More than four decades later, the 990 remains one of the brand's defining silhouettes, evolving through six generations (990v1 through 990v6) while preserving the design language that made the original a benchmark. Many versions continue to be produced under the Made in USA program.

The brand's second act came through collaboration, and it's arguably reshaped New Balance more than any single product launch. Teddy Santis, founder of Aimé Leon Dore, became Creative Director of New Balance's Made in USA line in 2021 and helped turn heritage running silhouettes into some of the most sought-after releases in sneaker culture, reimagining models like the 990, 993, and 990v2 with the understated aesthetic Aimé Leon Dore had already become known for. His influence is widely credited with accelerating New Balance's transformation from "dad shoe" to one of fashion's most respected sneaker brands.

Joe Freshgoods, Salehe Bembury, Casablanca, Kith, Stone Island, and Junya Watanabe have each brought their own perspective to New Balance's archive, introducing models like the 990, 1906R, 2002R, and 550 to entirely new audiences. Casablanca's luxury tennis-inspired collections helped revive the 550, while Joe Freshgoods' storytelling-driven collaborations became some of the brand's most celebrated modern releases. Ronnie Fieg's work through Kith has evolved into one of sneaker culture's longest-running partnerships, treating classic New Balance silhouettes as canvases for thoughtful reinterpretation rather than complete reinvention.

Signature Technology & Design Language

New Balance's design language has always favored substance over spectacle. ENCAP cushioning, introduced in the late 1980s, pairs a soft EVA foam core with a durable polyurethane rim for stability without excessive bulk — a construction method still used across much of the 990 series today. ABZORB cushioning, introduced in the early 1990s, combines foam and compression-resistant materials to absorb impact and reduce repetitive stress during long-distance running. More recently, Fresh Foam and FuelCell have brought the brand's performance-first philosophy into modern running, with Fresh Foam prioritizing lightweight cushioning and FuelCell engineered to maximize energy return for faster-paced training and racing.

Visually, the brand's identity is understated by design: the iconic "N" logo, layered suede and mesh construction, and muted color palettes rooted in shades of grey, navy, olive, and earth tones. Where other brands often pursue bold branding and loud colorways, New Balance built its aesthetic around restraint. That timeless approach is a major reason the brand found renewed relevance during the rise of quiet luxury and normcore, where subtle craftsmanship became more desirable than overt logos.

Cultural Impact & Influence on Streetwear

For years, New Balance carried the "dad shoe" label — a reputation built on comfort over style, worn by people who prioritized function above fashion. That perception changed dramatically during the late 2010s and early 2020s, as thoughtful collaborations, archival running designs, and changing fashion trends transformed the brand into a symbol of understated taste.

The rise of quiet luxury, the renewed appreciation for heritage running silhouettes, and a string of influential collaborations elevated New Balance into one of the most respected names in modern sneakers. Its Made in USA and Made in UK collections command premium pricing because of their craftsmanship, quality materials, and limited production — qualities that have also made many releases highly sought after on the resale market. That combination of heritage manufacturing, restrained design, and cultural relevance is a rare position for any footwear brand to occupy, especially one that began life as a small arch-support company in Boston.

Most Popular New Balance Models Today

New Balance 990 — the original $100 running shoe and the flagship of the Made in USA collection, representing the brand's commitment to craftsmanship and timeless design.

New Balance 2002R — the archival running silhouette whose modern revival helped fuel New Balance's lifestyle resurgence.

New Balance 1906 — a technical early-2000s runner that has become one of the brand's most popular contemporary lifestyle models.

New Balance 550 — an archival basketball shoe from 1989 revived into one of today's most versatile everyday sneakers.

New Balance 9060 — a bold reinterpretation of classic New Balance design language that introduced the brand to a younger generation of sneaker enthusiasts.

Shop the full New Balance collection at KICKS CREW for the latest releases and archive-favorite restocks.

FAQ

When was New Balance founded? New Balance was founded in 1906 in Boston as the New Balance Arch Support Company, decades before it began manufacturing athletic footwear.

Where does the name "New Balance" come from? Founder William J. Riley studied how chickens distributed their weight across their feet to maintain balance and applied that concept when designing arch supports, inspiring the company's name.

Is New Balance still made in the USA? Yes. New Balance continues to manufacture select models in New England under its Made in USA program, while its Made in UK collection is produced at its factory in Flimby, England.

Why did New Balance become popular in streetwear? Influential collaborations with Aimé Leon Dore, Joe Freshgoods, Salehe Bembury, Kith, Casablanca, Stone Island, and others introduced New Balance's heritage running silhouettes to a new generation of consumers, aligning perfectly with the rise of quiet luxury, vintage sportswear, and understated design.